The kosher cafe is a West End hold-out singing the joys of independence amid an ocean of bland franchises
Why do people rave about Gaby's Deli? The salt-beef sandwiches hit the spot, prices are low for Leicester Square and chances are high of sitting next to some star of theatreland. But the real reason why this place is so well-loved lies in its name: it has had one careful owner ever since opening nearly 50 years ago. Now 72, Baghdad-born Gaby Elyahou claims to have introduced the falafel to Britain; he certainly made it a favourite for West End amblers. From its, ahem, brisk service to its basic decor, Gaby's kosher cafe is a West End hold-out singing the joys of independence amid an ocean of bland franchises. A crying shame, then, that the landlord, the Marquess of Salisbury, wants it gone – to be replaced, it is thought, with a chain restaurant paying more rent. Despite protests and publicity, Gaby has until August before being turfed out of 30 Charing Cross Road. Unless of course the marquess changes his mind. What do you say, your lordship?